Bakery Looting Sparked the Pastry War Between France and Mexico
Behind It Was the Debt Problem of Newly Independent Mexico
A Humiliating Past Gave Rise to Mexico's Beloved Dessert, the Concha

Editor's NoteThe first sweets are said to have been discovered in ancient Mesopotamia. In a sense, sweets have accompanied humanity throughout its history: biscuits, chocolate, ice cream, and more. We bring you delicious stories about the treats we love.

Mexico, a country in Latin America, has a unique episode in its history: the so-called "Pastry War." Fought between France and Mexico from November 1838 to March 1839, it was a brutal conflict involving thousands of soldiers and leaving more than 300 casualties.


The cause of the war was literally bread. A dispute that began over a bakery escalated into a conflict between nations. The episode also reflects the hardships faced by young nations struggling to survive among the great powers that dominated much of the world.


A Bakery Dispute... Two Countries Went to War Across the Sea


The Pastry War between France and Mexico in November 1838 broke out over the looting of a bakery. Pixabay

The Pastry War between France and Mexico in November 1838 broke out over the looting of a bakery. Pixabay

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The Pastry War began in the 1830s with a French baker known as Remontel. Though French, he had settled in Mexico, where he made and sold bread to earn a living. But in 1832, soldiers wearing Mexican uniforms looted Remontel's bakery. Outraged, Remontel immediately demanded that the Mexican government pay him 60,000 pesos in compensation.


There is disagreement over how much 60,000 pesos was worth at the time, but Mexican historians believe Remontel likely demanded compensation far beyond the actual damage he suffered.


The Mexican government rejected Remontel's demand. He then immediately sent a letter of protest to the French king, Louis-Philippe I. After hearing about the case, the French government demanded 600,000 pesos from Mexico, ten times the original amount sought in compensation. When the Mexican president refused, France sent troops to blockade every port on the Gulf of Mexico. Thus, the Pastry War began in November 1838.


Mexico's Debt Problem Behind the Bakery Dispute


The Fort of San Juan de Ulúa, which Mexico used to defend against the French landing during the Pastry War. YouTube screenshot.

The Fort of San Juan de Ulúa, which Mexico used to defend against the French landing during the Pastry War. YouTube screenshot.

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France deployed 4,000 soldiers and 26 warships in the conflict, while Mexico faced the French with 3,229 soldiers. The two sides suffered more than 300 casualties combined. The war lasted about three months and ended with Mexico agreeing to pay France 600,000 pesos through British mediation. In effect, it was a decisive French victory.


Why did the two countries go to war over a single bakery? On the surface, the Pastry War was a dispute over a bakery, but beneath it lay tensions between the European great powers of the 19th century and newly independent nations. At the time, Mexico was a young nation that had gained independence from Spain just over a decade earlier. In the intervening years, it had experienced severe social and political instability, alternating between monarchy and republic, while prolonged wars and rebellions had left its treasury empty.


The Mexican government struggled to keep the country running by borrowing from abroad, and France was among its creditors. Mounting debt and repeated delays in repayment fueled tensions between the two countries, which eventually erupted over a minor incident.


A Bitter History Gave Rise to Mexico's Beloved Dessert, the "Concha"


Concha, Mexico’s national dessert, has a crispy, sweet crust and a soft texture. Pixabay

Concha, Mexico’s national dessert, has a crispy, sweet crust and a soft texture. Pixabay

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The Pastry War is remembered as a bitter chapter in Mexican history, but, ironically, it also helped give rise to one of the country's most beloved desserts: the concha, a type of pan dulce, or "sweet bread." In Spanish, concha means "shell." Just as its name suggests, the bread is topped with a distinctive crust resembling a hard seashell.


Like Korea's soboro bread and Japan's melonpan, this bread is topped with a crunchy crust. Its origins lie in French bread. After the Pastry War, trade between Mexico and France resumed, and France exported not only flour but also baking and pastry-making techniques to Mexico. According to My Slice of Mexico, an online magazine specializing in Mexican food culture, the concha's distinctive texture and flavor were influenced by French brioche.


Of course, Mexico did not simply adopt French food culture. The concha's signature crunchy crust was an innovation perfected by Mexican bakers. Techniques such as creating intricate patterns on the surface and decorating the bread with chocolate to enhance its flavor and appearance are also part of Mexico's distinctive baking culture.



Today, the concha proudly represents Latin America in the global pastry market, long dominated by celebrated European breads. In April 2026, New York-based global restaurant magazine Bon Appetit noted that the concha was gaining popularity in Western countries, including the United States, and said it "could become the new king of bread, replacing the croissant."


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