"6,000 Stores Have Closed"... Why China Has Turned Its Back on Its National Snack

Popularity Plummets as Short-Form Content Takes Off
Shifts in Consumer Habits, Including Veganism and Healthy Eating, Also Take a Toll

The popularity of braised duck neck, long known as a “national snack” in China, appears to be waning.

Chinese current-affairs weekly Xinzhoukan reported on October 20 that Juewei, one of China’s leading restaurant chains, had closed 6,000 stores in the past two years. That represents a decline of about 40% from 2023, or roughly seven store closures a day, the magazine said.

Photo for illustrative purposes. Pixabay.

Sales Slump at Duck Neck and Other Snack Brands

A Chinese social media user doing a mukbang featuring braised duck neck. Xiaohongshu, China.

Juewei’s revenue fell 10.82% year on year, while its net profit for the period dropped 23.16%. Its share price has also been on a downward trend, plunging 90% in six years. Although the delisting process has entered its final stage, the decline has continued. The deterioration in performance is largely attributed to weak sales of braised products, including duck neck, Juewei’s flagship items. Similar braised-snack brands are also trending downward.

In China, braised duck neck is a popular everyday snack, enjoyed casually much like sunflower seeds. According to data from market research firm Hongcan Big Data, 42.7% of consumers said they would be willing to pay 20 to 30 yuan (about 4,000 to 6,000 won) for a serving of braised food. But the rise of short-form content, together with changes in consumer habits, has failed to spare braised duck neck from a downturn.

Braised duck neck enjoyed its heyday alongside long-form dramas and sports broadcasts. People would hold a duck neck in one hand and a remote control or smartphone in the other. But as a leisure culture of lying down and scrolling through short-form videos with one hand has taken hold, particularly among younger generations, consumption of duck neck has gradually fallen because it requires both hands and leaves them greasy.

Price Hikes, Veganism and Growing Interest in Healthy Eating

The popularity of braised (steamed) duck neck is waning in China, according to Xiaohongshu.

Steep price hikes have also fueled a “duck-neck price gouging” controversy, while the popularity of veganism and healthy eating has left duck neck with less room in the market. Consumer complaints have also surged. The local consumer complaint platform Black Cat has received more than 1,900 complaints related to “Juewei duck neck.” Many reports cite hygiene issues, such as insects or foreign objects found in the food, as well as stomachaches and other discomfort after eating.

Recently, a social media post sparked controversy after a user shared a receipt for duck neck and other items purchased at what they considered an exorbitant price. Users responded with comments such as “It costs more than beef,” “Spending 400 yuan is a lot,” and “How can anyone afford to eat it at that price?”

The magazine said that duck neck has become a food people have to think twice about buying because of the strain on their wallets, and that consumers these days do not even glance at Juewei stores as they pass by. It attributed the trend to the rise of low-cost snack supermarkets and discount stores, as well as inexpensive stalls at traditional neighborhood markets, which have become formidable competitors. It added, “If consumers turn entirely to discount stores and traditional markets, braised duck neck specialty stores will soon all be forced to close.”

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.