[One Snapshot of Travel] When I Long for Something, I Go to Tongyeong

Familiar Faces in Every Alley Beyond Gangguan

Returning from Autumn in Tongyeong with a Bag of Honey Buns

When I long for it, I go to Tongyeong. I go when I miss the sea, the winding alleys, and the people. I wonder if the cozy guesthouse next to the Tongyeong Cultural Center is still the same.

Dongpirang outside the window. ©2026. Photo by Youngjin Seo

The journey from Tongyeong Terminal to the old town always fills me with anticipation. You pass by the sea and the hills, then the city hall and Jungang-dong Post Office, and finally arrive at Gangguan. The poet Yu Chi-hwan, overwhelmed by longing, once wrote a letter to his lover in front of the post office window. The traces of his poem "Happiness" remain on a commemorative poem monument in front of the Jungang-dong Post Office.

The alley of Bongsoogol, where the Jun Hyuk-lim Art Museum is located, is a great spot to enjoy a cup of coffee. I find myself wondering whether the small bookstore adorned with greens and the coffee shop run by the owner who used to roast beans by hand are still there.

The Gangguan area has changed a lot. Dongpirang Hill, once famous for its murals, has become a well-known tourist attraction. For a quiet stroll, people have started heading to Seopirang on the opposite side. A pedestrian bridge has been built crossing the Gangguan sea. After sunset, the Namman Mountain sculpture park is filled with media art.

There was a time when on the first day of the New Year, oyster rice cake soup was shared at Seopirang. The bowls used to be filled with oysters bigger than rice cakes. Nowadays, more signs for 'Dazzi'—Tongyeong's unique bar food experience—have appeared. They even feature in bus ticket app advertisements.

In Tongyeong, you retrace your steps, searching by asking around. You might ask your accommodation host for directions to the Daegu Polltang restaurant at the end of the Seho Market alley. The grandmother at the restaurant recommends a local honey bun (“ggulbbang”) shop. The man at the honey bun shop tells you a shortcut to the bus stop. Although you could simply check a foodie website or a map app, you don't mind these small efforts in Tongyeong.

This past summer, Tongyeong experienced heavy rainfall. Some shops in Hangnam-dong, the old downtown, have been shuttered. Tongyeong too seems to be going through changes, faced with the challenges of the world. By 2031, KTX high-speed trains will reach Tongyeong, and by then, the city may look very different.

I visited Tongyeong this autumn just a few days ago. I wasn't able to revisit many of the places I miss. I only looked at the sea and bought a bag of honey buns to take home. I wonder if the kittens at Mirae Temple on Mireuk Mountain have grown much. Sometimes, it's okay to let certain longings simply remain in your heart.

Gangguan. ©2026. Photo by Youngjin Seo

Seopirang 99 Steps. ⓒ2026. Photo by Youngjin Seo

Youngjin Seo, Travel Columnist

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.