Is the "Batman Chicken Breast" Ukraine’s Lifeline Amid War? How It Broke Through the EU’s Strict Regulations [Delicious Stories]

A Global Success: Ukraine Ranks Sixth in Chicken Exports Even Amid War

Conquering the EU with "Batman Chicken"—Chicken Breast with Wing Bones Left Intact

Ukrainians Take Pride in Their National Chicken Cuisine

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Even in Ukraine, a country devastated by prolonged war, there is an industry among the world’s best: frozen chicken meat exports. According to data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), Ukraine ranked sixth in the world for chicken exports last year, standing shoulder to shoulder with continental nations that own vast farmlands, such as Brazil, the United States, the European Union (EU), and China. How did chicken become Ukraine’s pride and a vital economic lifeline?

The Competitiveness of Ukraine’s Poultry Industry... MHP Accounts for 52% of Production

The Ukrainian chicken industry is dominated by large, vertically integrated companies that handle every process from raising and slaughtering to processing chickens. Among them, the company “MHP” accounts for 52% of total chicken production in the country (based on USDA 2024 figures). MHP owns massive poultry farms in the western region of Ukraine, which has sustained less war damage, and has expanded into European markets such as Spain, now holding significant market share in the EU export sector as well.

Chicken breasts cut leaving the wing bones are called "Batman chicken breasts" and were a subject of concern for European Union (EU) farmers. Chicken breasts processed in this way were treated as low-cost meat, allowing them to evade import quota regulations and be sold cheaper than pure chicken breasts. The photo shows the Batman chicken breast sections handled at a butcher shop. Photo captured from the Ferris website.

The entrepreneur who grew MHP into a global company is Ukraine’s so-called “chicken tycoon,” Yuriy Kosiuk. After founding MHP in 1998, he rapidly scaled up the business to its current size within just over a decade. The secret behind this growth was an industrial strategy of mass-selling chicken breast at very low prices to the EU market, where demand for chicken is high.

The “Batman Chicken Breast” Developed to Evade EU Quotas

Chicken breast products sold by MHP in the European Union (EU) market. Screenshot from MHP website

Just like in other Western countries, EU citizens prefer chicken breast. The EU classifies chicken breast as “fillet,” importing it at a high price, but imposes annual import quotas to protect its domestic livestock industry. To circumvent this regulation, Kosiuk developed a unique processing method: leaving the wing bone attached on both sides of the chicken breast. Because chicken breast with bones is not classified as fillet, it is reclassified as a low-cost cut and thus exempt from quota restrictions. As a result, MHP was able to flood the EU market with inexpensive Ukrainian chicken breast.

A poultry farm in Ukraine. Instagram capture

Chicken breast from Ukraine with the wing bone attached became known in the EU as “Batman Chicken Breast” because its shape resembled the Batman logo due to the attached bones. For EU farmers operating poultry farms, this proved particularly controversial. In 2019, the EU conducted trade negotiations with Ukraine to block Batman Chicken Breast products. In the end, a separate quota was assigned for Batman Chicken Breast, but in return, Ukraine gained the right to export higher-priced premium cuts instead of just low-cost chicken. The Ukrainian chicken meat industry used the EU market as a stepping stone for revitalization, and today, Ukraine has become a supplier of chicken, not only to Europe but also worldwide.

Ukraine Turned to Poultry Amid Economic Hardship

However, the success of Ukraine’s poultry industry was not solely due to clever tactics like Batman Chicken Breast. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, Ukraine was unable to escape chronic economic difficulties; at the government level, it encouraged the farming of relatively affordable chickens instead of expensive meats such as beef or pork. Kosiuk, the founder of MHP, served as an advisor under Petro Poroshenko—who was president of Ukraine from 2014 to 2019—and is credited with reinventing the Ukrainian meat market by focusing on chicken processing businesses.

Having fertile land known as “Chernozem” has also benefited the poultry industry. Ukraine is the world’s fifth largest exporter of crops such as wheat and corn, which are commonly used as chicken feed.

Chicken Kyiv: A Source of National Pride

Modern Ukraine's representative dish, Chicken Kyiv. Screenshot from Orecipe homepage

Ukraine is also a powerhouse of chicken cuisine. The symbol of modern Ukrainian food, and a source of national pride, is “Chicken Kyiv.” This dish consists of pounded chicken breast stuffed with sautéed butter and vegetables, coated with breadcrumbs, and then deep fried until crispy. Resembling a schnitzel made with chicken, it was once a formal meal only available in upscale hotels in the 20th century, but now it is a popular street food sold across Europe.

Even Russia, which is at war with Ukraine, makes and eats Chicken Kyiv. However, in Russia, it is labeled “Chicken Kiev,” following the Russian pronunciation. In response, after the war began, the Ukrainian government officially adopted the name “Chicken Kyiv” as the standard. The UK and EU countries supporting Ukraine have followed suit.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.