Nepalese Mountaineer Who Climbed All 14 Himalayan Peaks in 6 Months Dies in Avalanche

Nirmal Purja, Former Gurkha Regiment Member from Nepal
All 10 Missing Climbers Confirmed Dead on Pakistan’s High Peak

It has been confirmed that all 10 climbers, including renowned mountaineer Nirmal Purja (43), a former Nepalese Gurkha regiment member who recently went missing after an avalanche on Broad Peak (8,047 meters)—one of the world’s fourteen peaks above 8,000 meters located in Pakistan—have died.

According to AP and AFP news reports on August 2 (local time), Elite Exped, a professional mountain guide company, released a statement the day before confirming that all 10 members of the expedition, including Purja and nine other climbers, were dead. Elite Exped is known to be a company founded by Purja along with his colleagues.

Nirmal Purja in Life. Photo by AP Yonhap News

The 10-member team led by Purja went missing on July 30 on Broad Peak, located in the Karakoram range in northeastern Pakistani-administered Kashmir. The climbers were reportedly struck by an avalanche while attempting a summit push at an altitude of 6,600 meters and were swept hundreds of meters down the mountainside. It has been confirmed that there were six Nepalis on the team, with one Pakistani, one Omani, one American, and one Chinese climber, respectively. Despite poor weather, rescue teams deployed helicopters the next day, discovered four bodies, and were able to recover the remains of the American, Omani, and one Nepali climber. The remaining bodies were located via drones and other means, but recovery has proved difficult due to the treacherous terrain.

Purja, who held dual citizenship from the UK and Nepal, was a former Gurkha soldier—an elite regiment of Nepalese warriors attached to the British Army. In 2019, he became famous worldwide for climbing all 14 Himalayan peaks above 8,000 meters in the then-record time of six months and six days. The previous world record was seven years. In 2021, Purja also made history as part of a 10-member team that achieved the first-ever winter ascent of K2 in the Himalayas.

Recently, on the social networking service X (formerly Twitter), Purja posted that the day he would become the first climber to have summited all 14 peaks twice was drawing near. He added, "Broad Peak, I only wish to ascend and descend safely. That is all I ask."

Elite Exped stated, "Purja was a leader who inspired millions with the unwavering belief that human potential is far greater than what we often imagine," adding, "We have lost one of the greatest climbers. There are no words to soothe the pain of such an unimaginable loss."

Broad Peak is the twelfth highest mountain in the world and one of four 8,000-meter-class peaks in Pakistan's Karakoram range. The mountain is considered both exceptionally treacherous and a technically challenging climb.

As news spreads of Purja’s passing—an individual who drastically elevated the global recognition of Nepalese climbers who once played mainly supporting roles—condolences continue to pour in from all walks of life.

Thul Sing Sing Gurung, president of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association, paid tribute by saying, “Purja demonstrated to Nepalese people that climbing is not just work but something you can do for your own enjoyment and passion.” Nepalese Prime Minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal also expressed his condolences, stating, “While the physical journey of all the climbers who perished has ended, the legacy of their courage and dedication will always continue to inspire us.”

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.