[Bloomberg Column] The Real Face of K-Beauty

As demand for cultural content such as K-pop and films surges, Korean cosmetics are rapidly expanding in the global market. However, consumers need to be cautious. It is important to note that the luminous, poreless skin seen on stars in K-dramas cannot be achieved with cosmetics alone.

K-beauty skincare products come in a wide variety and are effective, and they are much more affordable than Western brands of similar quality. However, they are mainly focused on care—such as sun protection, hydration, and maintenance—rather than strong transformative effects. Because of this, the radiant “glass skin” shown by actors like Song Hye-kyo in the Netflix hit “The Glory” is difficult to achieve through the so-called “K-beauty 12-step skincare routine” alone, which involves layering cleansing, toner, essence, serum, masks, and creams in sequence.

Korean-style dermatological procedures must be added to the mix. Even before the rise of the American influencer Clavicular, known for the extreme self-improvement trend called ‘looksmaxxing,’ there was already a high level of interest in appearance in Korea due to social pressure and job competition. This is why Seoul, the capital of Korea, is referred to as the world’s center for plastic surgery. In Korea, which is about the size of Kentucky, there are 15,000 clinics, most of which are concentrated in Seoul.

More recently, Korea’s presence as a hub for non-hospitalization dermatological procedures has grown even further. There’s a vast array of options, from neighborhood hospitals to five-star clinics offering a dizzying selection of skincare treatments. Most of these are priced affordably enough that the local middle class can use them regularly. And now, this secret is out overseas as well.

Last summer, Kim Kardashian and Khloe Kardashian visited Seoul for beauty procedures and shared their experiences on Instagram. Perhaps as a result of their trip, the number of international visitors to Korea for medical purposes exceeded 2 million for the first time, an all-time high. In 2023, the Ministry of Health and Welfare eased visa restrictions and set a target to attract 700,000 medical tourists by 2027, a figure that has already been far surpassed.

Last year, over 60% of foreign patients visited dermatology clinics, a 6 percentage point increase from 2024. However, the proportion who actually underwent plastic surgery was only 11%. Friends of various ages living in Hong Kong and Singapore strongly recommend traveling to Seoul for dermatological procedures, saying the costs are relatively reasonable.

The process of creating “glass skin” involves multiple steps. Of course, one might have to endure an unsightly recovery period first. Specifically, laser treatments, suction, and skin texture management are required until the desired glow is achieved. Pigment lasers are needed to even out skin tone, followed by more powerful lasers to smooth the surface and reduce the appearance of pores.

For sagging skin, radiofrequency or ultrasound devices that deliver energy to deeper skin tissue can be used to stimulate collagen production. Milia or moles can be removed with carbon dioxide (CO₂) lasers.

There is also a wide range of procedures to improve skin condition. Options range from “skin Botox,” which is injected shallowly across the entire face, to “Rejuran Healer,” an injection containing polynucleotides (PN) derived from salmon sperm. This procedure is also known for causing considerable pain.

TikTok has played a major role in driving the popularity of K-dermatological procedures. Posts tagged “K-beauty” or “Korean skincare” are racking up 2.5 billion views per week. Most are product reviews or “Get Ready With Me” videos showing makeup routines or outfit preparations before going out. Many also show before-and-after transformations following skincare treatments in Seoul.

Affordable procedure costs are a key factor driving the trend. At one clinic in Gangnam, a Seoul neighborhood famous for expensive real estate, the price for “jaw muscle Botox” to prevent teeth grinding or soften the jawline is about $100. The same procedure costs $500–$1,000 in the United States. The Korean Botox product Hitox is advertised at 24,000 won, about $16.

The presence of experienced medical staff is also a strength. The head of a Korean medical tourism agency explained that regular dermatological treatments in Korea are “routine,” and there are plenty of skilled practitioners.

However, all medical procedures carry risks. In particular, medical tourism can involve inconsistent safety standards or limited legal protection. Added to this are language barriers and the challenge of aftercare upon returning home, which can further complicate matters. After various controversies, Korea now requires CCTV installation in operating rooms by law.

To achieve “glass skin,” Korean cosmetics must be combined with other efforts. Recently, Korean cosmetics companies have been pushing into global markets such as the United States, but it sometimes feels as though consumers’ expectations are getting ahead of reality. While there are now more options to replace expensive and often disappointing American skincare and cosmetics, it is not as if one can simply receive Korean dermatological procedures abroad. Expecting to look like a “K-pop star” overnight is unrealistic.

Juliana Liu, Bloomberg Opinion Columnist

This article is a translation by The Asia Business Daily of the Bloomberg column ‘No Pain, No Gain Is K-Beauty’s Secret’.

※ This column is published as part of a strategic partnership between The Asia Business Daily and Bloomberg.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.