Why Does Japanese Beer Go Down So Smoothly?... The "Dry War" of Beer Flavor [Sunday Culture]

Originally, Japanese Beer Was a Rich, Robust Lager
Reflecting Japanese Tastes Through Market Research
Winning With "Cleanliness" That Pairs With Any Dish

If you were to choose one of the most well-known Japanese phrases among Koreans, "Namabiru kudasai" (Draft beer, please) would likely be at the top of the list. It's interesting to note that even friends who usually only drink soju tend to order draft beer first when they visit Japan. The clean and refreshing taste that goes well with any dish seems to be the hallmark of Japanese beer.

However, Japanese beer did not always taste this way. The "cleanliness" that symbolizes Japanese beer is a relatively recent development. So when did this standard for Japanese beer taste emerge? This week, let's explore the "Dry War," an essential chapter in the history of Japanese beer.

Draft beer introduced by Asahi Beverages. Asahi Beverages.

This Wasn't the Original Taste... The History of Japanese Beer

The first beer introduced to Japan was the legendary British brand "Bass." This is the pale ale that was even served on the Titanic. It became very popular around the port cities during the opening period, to the point where counterfeit versions appeared due to its popularity.

When it comes to beer, Germany is also famous. News of the popularity of British beer in Japan reached Germany, prompting Germany to target the Japanese market. The German embassy made active efforts. During the Meiji Restoration, Japan began to actively adopt German systems in various fields such as law, medicine, and the military, leading to a "German boom."

Bass beer from England that entered Japan during the opening period. World Beer.

Then, in 1885, foreigners living in Japan established the Japan Brewery Company. The brewmaster was German, and everything from the equipment to the malt and hops was imported from Germany to produce authentic German beer. In 1888, the German-style lager, Kirin Beer, was launched. Buoyed by its success, Ebisu Beer was introduced in 1890, followed by Asahi Beer in 1892. All of them started as German-style lagers made with equipment imported from Germany.

What did German-style lagers taste like back then? They were described as having a strong flavor and bitterness, with a thick, reddish hue. In other words, they were robust beers. It’s hard to imagine this when thinking of the golden draft beers we know today.

Later, as Japan entered various wars in the 20th century, shortages of ingredients led to reductions in malt and hops, with rice and other substitutes being used instead. As a result, lighter lager styles spread, and people gradually became accustomed to milder-tasting beers.

How Super Dry Changed Everything... The Start of the "Dry War"

The decisive turning point in this trend was the launch of Asahi Super Dry in 1987. In the 1980s, Kirin dominated the beer market. Asahi, with a low market share, was struggling. Asahi conducted a survey of 5,000 consumers at the time. The conclusion was that consumers did not want strong, bitter beers, but rather clean, easy-to-drink, refreshing beers. Tastes were clearly shifting toward milder flavors.

So what kind of flavor should they aim for? Asahi looked to the Japanese traditional sake, "nihonshu," for inspiration. Nihonshu distinguishes between "amakuchi" (sweet) and "karakuchi" (dry and clean aftertaste). Asahi's developers applied the karakuchi concept to beer.

The company set out to create "a beer that goes well with any food and can be enjoyed over multiple glasses." The development team experimented extensively, adopting high-fermentation yeasts and improving the brewing process to incorporate the karakuchi concept of sake into beer.

They focused on achieving a crisp finish and a refreshing mouthfeel, rather than the heavy flavors of traditional beers. Through trial and error, they adopted yeast with strong fermenting power and optimized the brewing method to suit it, debuting a completely new style of beer. Karakuchi was reborn as "Super Dry." The now-familiar silver can was highlighted to emphasize a modern image, and this new beer quickly became popular among young professionals.

Asahi Super Dry Can. Asahi Beverages.

This shift led to a rare success in the history of Japanese beer. Sales surged to the point of threatening Kirin's long-held number one position, and competitors such as Suntory, Sapporo, and Kirin all released their own "dry" beers. The industry referred to this as the "Dry War." From this point on, the standard for Japanese beer became "cleanliness" and "a smooth finish." It established itself as the representative flavor of Japanese beer. For this reason, the late 1980s are often called "the years when all Japanese beers turned dry."

So, Japanese beer is not particularly stronger or more robust to be considered delicious. In fact, quite the opposite. Rather than intensity, it’s the clean taste that pairs well with any dish that makes Koreans want to say "Namabiru kudasai."

When considering Japan's beer history, from strong lagers to dry beers, it's clear that today's Japanese beer is not the finished product. As times change, the criteria for what makes a delicious beer may change once again.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.