The Report That Sparked America's Fear of Chicken Thighs [Delicious Stories]
1977 U.S. Dietary Guidelines Report Addressed Public Health
Red Meat Not Recommended to Reduce Heart Disease
Chicken Breast Emerges as "Healthy Meat" Instead
Americans have a particular preference for chicken breast over chicken thigh. But when did this start? The country's unique love for chicken breast actually stems from the wellness food trend. It was a collaboration: the government, which recommended lean meats as healthy ingredients, and poultry farmers, who spotted an opportunity as the price of chicken breast surged.
U.S. Limited Animal Fats to Prevent Heart Disease, Shunning Chicken Thighs
The American preference for chicken breast began in the mid-20th century. After World War II, the government even launched the "Chicken of Tomorrow" project to develop poultry breeds with a significantly higher proportion of breast meat. The resulting breed, called the "broiler," is now raised and consumed around the world.
However, it was not until the 1970s that chicken breast truly gained popularity. The catalyst was the "McGovern Report," the U.S. dietary guideline published by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 1977.
The McGovern Report identified the increasingly prevalent problems of heart disease and stroke as being caused by fatty diets, and it made reducing the intake of animal fats and sugar a top priority for U.S. public health policy. Chicken breast and other types of "white meat," low in fat and high in protein, were recommended, while the consumption of "red meat," such as chicken thigh, was advised to be reduced.
As chicken breast gained recognition as a healthy meat, the poultry processing industry seized the opportunity. According to Slate, a U.S. food culture magazine, in the 1980s livestock farmers and poultry processing companies began to emphasize the low-fat, high-protein nutritional value of chicken breast, promoting it as a "premium food." The magazine explained, "It is not that companies purposely disparaged chicken thighs," but "as the differences in calories and fat content between thighs and breast were highlighted, consumers became willing to pay more for chicken breast."
As Immigration Increased, Americans Discovered the Taste of Chicken Thighs
Chicken thigh sandwich from "Peking House," a popular restaurant in New York. Peking House official website
View original imageThe American preference for chicken breast also changed the landscape of the food industry. According to Slate, in 2007, U.S. households ate chicken an average of nine times a month, but only consumed thighs or drumsticks twice. As a result, the amount of red meat waste—unused thighs and drumsticks—soared. Instead of discarding thighs and drumsticks, American farmers actively exported them to places like Russia and Asia, amounting to a staggering 1.6 billion pounds (about 725 million kilograms) annually.
However, recently Americans have started to appreciate the taste of chicken thighs. This is largely due to the increasing population of Asian and Hispanic immigrants, who have long enjoyed chicken thighs. The surge in chicken breast prices and the trend of major fast-food chains introducing fried chicken thigh menu items have also contributed. According to market research firm Circana, as of November last year, sales of chicken made from chicken thighs increased by 23.1% compared to the previous year.
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Health concerns are also easing. Earlier this year, the FDA released new U.S. dietary guidelines that placed "healthy fats" as well as protein at the top of the food pyramid. In this regard, Northeastern University of Science commented, "For years, the federal government has recommended that Americans limit foods containing red meat and saturated fat," but "the new guidelines encourage people to get protein from red meat, plant-based foods, and animal-based foods alike."
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